For years Kodak have kept it simple when it came to disposables with your choice of either disposable legend that is the FunSaver and the much lesser waterproof model. But in recent years there’s been a burst of disposables. So lets meet their B&W film version the Kodak Tri-X disposable which is confusingly also known as the Kodak Professional Tri-X or the 400TX

Kodak and Single Use

Kodak have been one of the key makers of single use alongside Fujifilm. Fujifilm got there first in 1986 but Kodak quickly followed (ironically both models were 110). By the end of the 80’s 35mm film had become the norm for single use. Following the bankruptcy era, Kodak Alaris have sold Kodak single use cameras. Production remains lucrative for both Alaris and Fujifilm despite the digital dominance.

For Kodak for most of the last couple of decades that’s meant either the legendary funsaver or the waterproof model. But Kodak alaris expanded the range a few years back.

Current Kodak Single Use Cameras

• FunSaver – The old 2 element legend that has been top of the heap for disposables for sometime
• Sports – the old waterproof version. Historically outclassed slightly by Fujifilm’s equivalent although it has a higher depth rating (15 v 10m). No flash
• Power Flash – Should really be called mildly better flash as it’s 1.2-4.5m range is only adds a metre over the Funsaver (1.2-3.5m). It looks the same camera as the Tri-X and shares the same 2 element 30mm lens
• Daylight – lacks flash and only one element
• Tri-X

All the other cameras load in a Kodak 800ISO film but the Tr-i-X use 400TX, the oldest film stock that Kodak make and one of their most beloved B&W films. The film loaded is in a slightly changed cartridge in that there is a sawtooth edge on the spindle in common with other kodak disposables. It can if extracted be used just the same as any other roll in another camera (although gone are the days for getting film cheaply from a disposable). It is DX coded.

The 400 ISO puts it on a level playing field with the Key Rival B&W single use and single use reloadable

Design

it is a run of mill disposable with a black plastic body covered with a

Specification

There’s not a lot to say. There are some nice tactile ridges around the push button flash and on the grip.

The camera itself is 2 element 30mm lensed affair with a fixed f/10 & 1/125 exposure set up. With the 400 ISO film this means optimal shooting would be on an quite overcast day. That’s an EV₁₀₀ of 11.67). There are no frills like cable ,tripod or wrist strap point.

The film plane is curved as you’d expect to improve focus. It does make me wonder if this is built of the old funsaver which has a similar if not the same 2 element 30mm 1:10 lens. Focal range is described as 1.3m (3.3ft) to infinity

The flash has a purported range of 1-3m (3-10ft). The camera has a AA battery included to power that .

Use

Not much to say about standard use. Wind on until winder stops, aim and shoot, repeat until winder just keeps on winding.

For flash there is a push button on front. I found this charged up the flash not just for that shot but the next too. It will dissipate but potentially is an issue.

When finished Kodak would prefer you to send the camera to a lab. In an ideal world that lab should send the used camera on for recycling. But most don’t meaning it’s off to landfill. Shout out for Brighton film lab in the UK whom are one a few that do.

Many labs also charge a premium for processing these.

So unloading the camera yourself can save you a bob and you can also retrieve the AA battery. For the foolhardy you can also reuse the camera (see later)

To do so just peel back the base sticker. Then shimmy open the film compartment cover with a small flab blade screwdriver inserted into the slot marked below. The film should easily fallout with a gentle shake. You may need to wind on some more to make sure no leader sticking the cartridge.

Once that’s done you can also remove the AA battery. Just slide the cover of the battery compartment in the direction of the opened film cannister compartment. There’s a small arrow pointing that way on the cover

Rivals & Greta is watching

The B&W disposable market was a thing before this. It’s dominated by the Harman models with either Ilford XP2 or Ilford HP5 Plus. Agfaphoto have also a LeBox disposable loaded with APX400 (another harman emulsion). You also have the likes of preloaded reloadable disposables from Harman and Lomography

Here’s a list with prices on Amazon UK- I do get commission if you click on links in the prices . Other retailers are available and you may find cheaper esp the Simple use which is much cheaper on other sites. Prices were correct on 19/05/24

Camera	Film	Lens	Cost
Kodak Tri-X	Kodak 400TX 27Exp	30mm f/10 2 element	£15.99
Harman XP2	Ilford XP2 27Exp	30mm f/9 ?1 element	£19.90
Harman HP5+	Ilford HP5+ 27Exp	30mm f/9 ?1 element	£14.95
Agfaphoto LeBox B&W	Agfaphoto APX400 36 Exp	31mm f/11 1 element	£19.49
Harman Reloadable	2xKenmere PAN 400 27 Exp (unloaded)	31mm f/10 1 element	£24.95
Lomography Simple use	Lomography Lady Grey 27Exp	31mm f/9 1 element	£20*

The reloadable are important. The Harman model is discounted heavily these days. Its’s frankly awful to load but still easier than single use and you do get 2 rolls of reasonable film. It also has a the same lens as the dubblefilms show class. Although personally I’d by a dubblefilm show clone with standard loading for about £15-25 quid

That’s because even if you take the risk of reloading the Show clone will last a lot longer

For Those of YOU who reload, We probably won’t electrocute you

So In my usual pants covering warning. I don’t recommend you reload single use compacts and you do so at your own risk . They do contain high powered capacitors for the flash circuit that can give you a nasty tazer like shock or worse.

That said like the funSaver this one of the safer cameras. You don’t need to expose the flash circuit to get the back off. And one method of reloading means there is little risk of getting shocked. But that said..

I’ve stuck a my thoughts on this at the bottom of the post

Kodak Tri-X Results

It’s one of those things about proper B&W films that you can get considerably different results depending on how you and your lab process B&W

That said this give results similar to the Funsaver. I actually think the reloaded colour image come out the best but I’m maybe more of a fan of a finer grain B&W or monochrome C-41 films like XP2

Centrally it’s pretty sharp in the short to median range. It softens a little on long landscape shots (>30m). Towards the corners and long edges it softens a bit more with more obvious chromatic aberrations creeping in. There is a little barrel distortion but not bad.

It is a pretty good disposable camera lens set up. With stock load I think it comes down to preferences. I think this is a narrow call between Harman’s Ilford HP5+ model. I’d probably pick the Ilford XP2 for a single use still (but that is literally fry your fingers pig to reload).

And shot count, reloads & Flash shots ?

As to shot count. It said 27 and i got 27 shots but last shot had a light edge and there was a malfunction or leak with 3 shots (frames 23-25). The below attempted self was the worst. This was bit disappointing

I tried reloading twice before I tried the second loading method and snapped the pin.

My first roll was an expired 2023 36 exp of ColorPlus. I got back 38 images (1 affected by light on loading so really 37) which wasn’t bad. It was loaded using the simpler but light tight method. another roll I attempted to load using the day light safe method but didn’t p[properly disengage the loading lock so only got 6 shots

Flash worked well. It has limited range but doesn’t nuke stuff. But As discussed there was an issue of it remaining on after a shot

Final Thoughts on the Kodak Tri-X

Not bad Kodak is the TL:Dr. This is an okay disposable helped with a double element lens. That said the Harman XP2 model for me is still my favourite Monochrome single use. That’s probably due to the film but that is one camera you don’t wanna reload unless you have sadomasochistic tendencies. And film and process matters here. I was unimpressed with the AgfaPhoto Le Clic APX400 model but it’s the same camera that I loved in half frame for as the Ilford Ilfocolor Rapid half frame single use.

But I suspect this is just slightly better than those 2 once you remove the film and processing. It’s also pretty easy to reload. But a cheap Dubblefilm/M35 clone or Reto UWS isn’t much more and are way easier to load

What’s good

• 2 element lens from the funsaver
• Reloadable
• sensible styling
• Cost is only a few quid more than buying a roll of Tri-X
• It’s loaded with Tri-X

What’s not so good

• Flash stays charged
• light leak on included roll (but not on reload)
• It’s a disposable
• It’s loaded with Tri-X

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Other reviews and Info on the Kodak Tri-X

This camera has been reviewed by the Likes of Popular Photography, Spaq.in and DCW. Random camera blog also cover this and interestingly used a bit of yellow gel taped over the lens on sunny days.

Kodak have a details on this and their other single use cameras on their site including a spec list PDF

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Reloading the Kodak Tri-X

I think this is just a tweaked Funsaver so much of what applies there applies here when coming to reloading. But here’s my tuppence (or more like 2 quid fifty). To reload this camera you’ll need at least one small flat bladed screwdriver and one 1 standard sized flat bladed driver. A knife and/or scissors may be helpful in getting the label off and for the neurotic amongst you a roll of black electrical tape to go over the seals may be in order

Step 1 Remove old film & Battery

as mentioned before, peel back the sicker on the base (it’s folded over itself on the base). The film canister compartment is accessed by shimming a flat blade screwdriver in the slot marked with the red arrow.

If fully rewound the cannister should just drop out but you might need to shake the camera a bit. If it doesn’t fall out the leader might still be in the camera., try winding further. If you’ve reloaded with a 36exp cannister you may need to prise open the sides a bit (see below)

Once the old film is out you should slide the battery cover in the direction of the film cannister comparment to take it off and remove the battery

Step 2 Prise the clips off and remove back

Double clip each end and one on top. You’ll need to peel back label to get at the latter

Step 3 Load the new film

It depends how confident you are what method to use. There are 2 approaches as we’ll see. One easier but ma lot need to be done in the total darkness. The other more fiddly can be done in the light. Read through this guide before attempting.

So single use cameras kinda work in reverse. the film moves into the 35mm cannister as you shoot. You need to wind the new film round a loading spool

In both cases lift out the loading spool form the camera (shown here with arrows). It’s removable

Slot your film leader in and startwinding around (you’ll want to turn the film away from the cartridge as pictured)

I’d wrap most of the narrower leader around and then slot this loading spool back in the camera. At this point slot in a screw driver to the loading spools slot on the base and use to wind on a little more film

Step 4(a) Easier but requires light tight

You will need a complete blackout environment for this. But don’t worry if you haven’t got a darkroom or something like a light tight changing bag

I reloaded this camera twice under double Duvet (I’d not recommend a single one as more of a risk of letting light in). I close my curtains so did this in lo-light room. before starting I made sure everything I needed was under the blanket (the camera back, battery, battery cover and film door. I practiced doing this under the duvet before using actual film. I added a blanket over the duvet (probably overkill). Mkes ure yo take of your watch if the dial is or you suspect luminous.

Once my camera was prepped as above holding the film in place as above , I slid the cammera and film under the duvet making a small tent with my hands. I push in my arms length and then used my body to try and seal the edge. Once in postion just keep winding the film on with screwdriver as stage 3 once the roll stops paying out film slowly turn the driver in ther other direction and move the film cartridge into it’s slot. make sure you feel the film perforation are properly aligned on the sprocket above the film gate. Keeping tension on the loading spool, snap back on the back, put in battery and the cover and then seal the film door. Make sure the sides and top are properly secure

Step 4(b) Avoiding using the light bag

Okay I’ve not successfully mastered this method. But there is a way to load the film without using a light tight environment. You’ll need to practice the shimmy bit.

do steps 1 to 3. Reinsert battery and slip the film roll in keeping the loading spool in place with a screwdriver. Then slip a probe or similar in to gently bend out the plastic catch of the winder as shown below

Then clip the the film cover, battery and rear back on – make sure your probe goes into the big slot behind the shutter. The more adventurous of you will be able to slip the probe in after the back is on.

You want to gently bend the catch back allowing the winder to turn in reverse. Be gentle as you don’t want this to snap as shown below (yup I goofed)

Assuming you don’t snap. keep the probe in place and start winding the film on with your screwdriver

Once you’ve wound your film on. keep tension on driver. You now want to lift your probe over the catch and pull it back into position so it catches. It should click when you wind as normal. You may need 2 probes to do this but sadly I can’t tell you that for certain.